Penne with Asparagus, Chèvre, and Soft Herbs

oodles of noodles

troppo pesante

salted pasta water - italians look suspicious if you forget to salt the water, no matter how salty the sauce is

inspired by Jerry T recipe

fat stalks easier to shave - if pressed for time, or using short pasta such as penne, can just slice them thinly on the diagonal. Chervil or basil would be good herbal additions/substitutions. Other spring vegetables, such as pea shoots, pea pods or blanched fava beans, would be welcome additions, as would well-sauteed morels or fresh shavings of truffle, should you be so lucky. 

Penne with Asparagus, Chèvre, and Soft Herbs

Makes 4 entree-sized servings

1 bunch (preferably fat) asparagus stalks (about 1 pound)

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1 more for finishing the pasta

2 medium spring onions, chopped

1 stalk green garlic, finely chopped

a splash of dry white wine (about 2 tablespoons)

10 ounces dry penne (or 12 ounces fresh pasta)

4 ounces fresh goat cheese, crumbled (about 2/3 cup)

2-4 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

For finishing:

flakey sea salt

freshly ground pepper

freshly grated parmesan

Snap the fibrous ends off the asparagus (they will naturally break where they are tough). Slice on a steep diagonal 1/2" thick, leaving the tips in tact. 

In a wide skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over a medium flame until shimmering. Add the onions and green garlic, and saute until very tender, about 10 minutes, lowering the heat if the alliums begin to color. Add the asparagus, a few pinches of salt, and a splash of white wine. Cook, tossing with a pair of tongs, until bright green and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, fill a soup pot or dutch oven halfway with cool water, add 1 rounded tablespoon of sea or kosher salt, cover and bring to a boil. Cook the pasta until al dente, scoop out a few tablespoons of the pasta water and set aside. Drain the pasta well. 

Immediately place the cooked, drained pasta in a large bowl and toss with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to coat. Add the asparagus mixture, goat cheese, and the tarragon and gently toss with a pair of tongs to combine, adding a splash or two of pasta water if needed to moisten the pasta, and tasting for salt. 

Top bowls of pasta with a good grating of parmesan and black pepper. Serve immediately.